Moved back East from Denver and now that I am back near family want to get into building a vintage race car with them. This needs to find a new racer first.

I built this car up over three years. 'Dirks' motor.

Chuck also helped a lot with this car.

I don't have a ton of pics. Would prefer a buyer come view it. But can take any pics necessary with my phone.

Only used #901 at 12 race weekends. So it is still very, very fresh.

Chassis:
1983
never wrecked in first life or on track
minor paint difference in front valance and driver fender(even though professionally PPG painted as I did not have them blend) as I replaced this summer with nice panels as valance was abused. And fender was backed into by me in paddock at Lime Rock(embarrassing
Sunroof with manual latches so passes tech

Suspension:
steel a-arms
6 weekend front bearings
6 weekend ball joints
all weltmeister bushings
front a-arm bushings only have 3 weekends on them
350# front springs
konis front and rear
30MM torsion bars
5 inch ride height
Basically, the max of 944 SPEC rules
welmeister front and rear sways
corner balanced with 160lb driver
mookah camber plates

Engine:
1988 engine and DME with only 8 race weekends on it.
Engine built by former national champ and engineer David Dirks. Built to rules and for reliability. Baffled oil pan. Photo proof if needed.
Mocal Oil cooler mounted and ducted to front valance
new factory radiator
VR1 20/50 changed after EVERY weekend
Straight thru exhaust with glass pack
A/C delete bracket

Trans:
new factory clutch
stock LSD
never rebuilt and shifts flawlessly at race pace

Brakes:
1 weekend front rotors and hawk blue pads
6 weekend rear rotors and hawk blue pads
stainless lines

Interior:
complete AC delete
Fire extinguisher mounted in driver reach
Fire proof shift boot
Factory gauges in bent aluminum dash
Low pressure oil light added
Oil temp gauge added
2 OMP TRS PLUS red and yellow stripes on black seats on OMP mounts(google them, that are lovely), these are touring car FIA rated seats, snug but easy to get in and out of in an emergency. I imagine someone up to 200lBS or so would find them comfy. HANS compatible seats.
Belts for driver good for 2013, belts for passenger good as most orgs have them good for five years, not the two of racing)
Window net
Driver net
Quick release OMP corsica suede wheel
wipers work
key lock removed, what a pain that was
Lights still in and working, motors removed to save weight, but lights can be wired up if you do a night endure.
Autopower roll cage with extra door bars, as needed for tech
Interior is not 'pretty' but a nice comfy, safe place to get to the business of racing.
Stock rear view mirror, I never needed more.

Exterior:
Bright green paint. It looks like a race car. Easy for spouse to spot.
Two bumpers, one green for on track, another with tow bar mounts
Vinyl graphics can easily be pulled off, but they are custom and beautiful
BRAND NEW windshield, this is a big deal when racing, only 1 weekend on it
Exterior battery cut off pull
holes cut for easy torsion bar adjustment
Two sets of race legal cookies (one set junk towing tires, one set old R888)

Weight:
2600 lbs(legal minimum) with 1/4 tank and 160 lb driver.
I am light, so lots of weight still able to be removed if you are of a larger stature (full size battery, passenger seat and belts, sound deadening, stock wiring, headlights, replace factory sunroof with aluminum panel


Summary:
A great car with no DNFs, fresh but tested. 88 engine, the best hi-comp legal engine in the lightest 83 manual steering chassis with a factory LSD. And cosmetics that put it above 80% of the 944 SPEC cars out there. I did my first four weekends on a stock motor with 130,000 miles on it, with a fresh motor you have lots of worry free racing ahead.

Since my move to CT I had the car tech'd for NASA and PCA but then only did one test and tune day at Lime Rock in 2012. What a difference being at see level makes. Car ran beautifully.

Call Kevin 720-three-three-nine 5658 (kept my Colorado number even though I live in CT now)

With a Dirks motor, that is a lot of car for the money!

Still looking and learning, so I'll ask this here.

With 8 weekends on the motor, is my math correct and this motor has probably 45-50 hours on it (6 hours per weekend with a T/T day)?

In discussions I've had or read between others, seems consensus is 45-60 hours or every two years, motors need bearing replaced and motor generally freshened?

Just noticed this add says "motor tested but fresh".....? I'm confused.

If I'm wrong then free bump for what may be a nice car

With good oil, coolers, and a meticulous Dirks build, the motor should be good for 5+ seasons. One round of rod bearing changes in there if you are anal. The motors are very low stress, and lose performance very slowly. They are not 911 Cup motors. The first motor I had built in 2007, is still running strong, having run 50+ events. It got overheated last season when the current owner left the coolant reservoir cap off and warped the head. A $300 head job, and it's good to go. It had the rod bearing changed once as a precautionary measure. They looked great.

Dirks has built 20+ motors, and to my knowledge, has not had a catastrophic failure.

Doc about summed it up. And more reading on this board will show you all agree.

8 weekends is a very fresh car and engine. Oil changed every weekend. And I run 20/50 VR1 which has lots of zinc for protection. You could run a thinner oil, or synthetic and probably free up a few horsepower but I wanted longevity, not that last 2-3% of power.

I can appreciate that. I'm actually not a fan of synthetic anymore. I think its hype personally. I used it in my last truck ('06 F150), and got crap mileage. As soon as I went back to Dino oil, I gained a couple extra miles per gallon!
I guess I need to get more info on what a "Dirk's" motor means. I see you all talk about him but I don't know what he does (to the motor). Guess that's next on my list of things to understand.