Yeah, neutral for towing is something I've heard 100%.

Looks like I'll run from chassis loops to D-rings in front as the easiest, most obvious, and strong attachment points up front. I'll cross or go strait out based on whatever is easier. Then in back I'll go crosswise from the control arms.

I think I'll just do what seems easiest and most obviously strong over whatever one theory of "right" is.

I saw an interview somewhere with a shock expert from one of the big companies talking about never binding the suspension while towing. If you watch the big race teams, they use wheel straps or a suspension point.

My tie down points don't pull the wheels to the side so ruining the alignment isn't a problem for me.

I suspect it is true that binding the suspension could rarely cause damage but I don't really see the advantage so I use the wheel straps.

I put some eyebolts down in the rear compartments behind each wheel.






These are at the thick part where the body support is. Very easy to see and hook into either with my old open trailer or my new enclosed trailer.

Front I use the factory points.

In my previous life as a cross country mover, we always strapped the chassis/frame down and in a criss cross manner using factory points if possible. It keeps bouncing and sideways movement to a minimun. Always recheck the ratchet straps and tighted the one that always gets a little loose after 25-50 miles.
Our cars sit so low that with d-rings there may not be room for ratchets under the car.