Just finished wiring up my dash.
Quite a job to say the least. And doesn't help having neighbors asking to borrow tools every 10 min. But here is what i did. Sorry i don't keep track of prices. It only makes me sad.
Bought 5 Autometer gauges. Tach, fuel level, volt, water temp, oil temp and oil pressure. You will need to get an adapter for the oil temp from lindsey racing that goes into your oil drain hole. There may be alternatives but i went this route. So got the gauges on ebay. Great seller down in florida and he will get you them in only 3 days. Also ordered a bunch of good quality USA made switches. I have 10 because i want my car to be street legal. So i have switches for Ignition, start, fuel pump, fans, blank, wipers, parking lights, headlights, horn, and turn signals.
I got a fuse panel from painless and it was for a race car/street racer so it had the connections for most of what you need. Instructions weren't dumbed down to a 6 year old level like i would have liked.
I had some old wiring left over from another project and it proved to be very valuable. I wired what i could on the bench and then installed the dash and wired it up, one by one. Took two days, not working too hard. I crimped/soldered/heat shrinked all connections. Got a torch at Lowes and some good electrical solder at radio shack.
I may have $700 in all my gauges and dash/switches. Maybe a tad more but that would be my guess.
Very pleased so far. Still have to wrap all the wiring and connect the oil temp and oil pressure sensors. Tomorrow i am going for a drive. First time in 4 months.
Just for a notation....
There are three wires on the fuel sending unit (1987) White Green and Brown.
The white wire is not used.
Make sure the brown is grounded and then the Green wire goes to the purple wire on the auto meter fuel gauge.
If you follow the directions of auto meter you are supposed to have the tank near empty and then run a few simple instructions. Then fill up the car and do some more. Well that leaves only one chance to get it right.
So i recommend that you pull the fuel sender and do it out of the car. A little, ok a lot of fuel will come out. My car was full. You can test the sender on the bench. Mine at empty was 2.3ohms and 63.5 full. Same as what others posted.
So i did the "programming" of the gauge with the sender out. Just flipping it upside-down and you can hear the float.
The large ring that holds the sender in the tank can be removed easily if you use a vice grip type oil filter remover. Hope this helps.
