I am trying to get as much work done during the deep freeze as possible so all I really have to do is focus on the cage in the spring. I am rounding up some parts and need some help.

The fist question is on springs. I have heard rates of between 350# and 400# can I assume this is the range everybody is running? Also I want to run a 2.25" ID spring vs. the 2.50", is that what everybody is doing? Lastly what lengths are you guys running? I have heard 7"-10" but I would rather do something known vs. unknown.

Next is torsion bars. I have heard both 30mm solid and 31mm hollow. I can find solid but not hollow. What is the consensus on what is better and does anybody have any for sale?

I have overhauled front calipers and they are running on new rotors, pads and bearings, but I am locking up the pass side early or drivers late but I think the issue is the passenger side. I am assuming that the two caliper halves are not moving in/out smoothly and binding up. Any tricks here (grease, some light clearancing work etc.)? I have verified the bleed is fine (fresh fluid too by the way).

Thanks!!

Springs - 350-400 is typical, yes.

Torsion bars - essentially the same. The 31 hollows are a little lighter, but that weight is were you want it. the 30 solids are cheaper.

Put Syl-glide or similar heigh temp grease on the calipers, and check your corner balance - if the front weight are different, it could lead to lock up issues on the light side.

OK thanks Doc, I will grease up the calipers. The car is still on fixed height springs as I put together new struts for her so the corner balance is likely not the issue.

30mm sounds like the way to go. Thanks!

30mm t-bars are available at www.pacificcustoms.com for $190

Lockup on these cars is a tricky subject...technique, brake pad material, temperature of tires and corner balance are all factors...the last thing I would consider is calipers unless you had prior problems.

Good points. One other thought, is to look at the brake piston orientation. It is often overlooked that the pistons have a depressed area that needs to be correctly oriented, or the inital bite will be different, and you will get funny pad wear.

Look here: forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/924-931-9...caliper-rebuild.html

Are these torsion bars really worthy the money? I'm about to order bars for my car and the price is way better than other places. Also just to be sure the bars are the 30mm type 1 VW right?