I took the opportunity to re-paint the roll cage and dash. The cage was previously red as it was transplanted from my previously totalled red race car.



Here's the factory dash all stripped, cut in half, and painted. I added some aluminum C-chanel to hold the instruments and switches.



When you remove all the factory wiring, you have great access to the clutch master cylinder. Mine is looking ratty and is now on the to-do list



Here is the two trash cans full of factory wiring:

I ordered most of the components needed from Del City Electronics. They have a good selection and prices. No complaints here. I used Weather Pack (Delphi GM OEM) connectors. They worked really, really well and are super easy to install with the right crimping tool. Unfortunately the factory Delphi tool is several hundred dollars. However, DIY Autotune sells "an exact duplicate" of the Delphi tool for $99 so I grudgingly got off my wallet and bought their crimpers. They work perfectly. DIY Autotune also has a great write up on how to crimp Weather Pack connectors:

www.weatherpackkits.com/how-to-assemble-weather-pack/

I might be willing to loan my Weather Pack tool to others if interested.



I welded the mounting plate for the Painless fuse box on the right side of the dash (or where the dash used to be). Here it is before grinding the welds and painting. The kill switch isn't shown but it is now mounted through the firewall with the switch side on the interior of the car just under the fuse box. I can reach it from my seat and I'll put a cable on the passenger side for exterior access. It used to be under the hood which annoyed me because I had to open the hood to activate it. Originally, I was going to go with an electrical solenoid cut-off but I decided to stay simple instead and stay mechanical.



Here are the switch panels all wired up. It looks like a rats' nest right now but it all gets cleaned up later. I used Del City's shrink fit crimp connections and I was impressed.

I added a lug to the roll cage in the rear for a very solid ground point for the brake lights, fuel pump, and my cool suit pump.



Getting closer. Everything wired up but clean up still to do:



Here's a good shot of one of the Weather Pack connectors used for the fuel pump.



I used a terminal block to make up all the connections where multiple outputs are needed off of one input. This is the one part of the build I'm not happy with. The ignition and accessory circuits are too busy for my tastes here. A better way to go would be to use a multi-pin switch and a Weather Pack connector for each. I may go that way later on.



All done. It even runs!



I still have a few things I'd like to do. I'm going to make a weather cover for the fuse box area. I might change the terminal block for certain circuits to multi-pin switches. It never ends....

I still have a fully electrical cut-off switch if anyone wants it. It is a Painless P/N 30204.

Here are the specs:

www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/l...hp?SearchField=30204

It was $92 at Summit Racing. Make me an offer if you want it. If not, it will probably end up on Ebay as I think I've had it too long to return.

Very cool - thanks for the post!

One tip I've used with good success is to dab a bit of clear silicon caulk on the on the spade connections. This is less of an issue with good connectors like you have, but helps vibration-proof connections. This tip comes from an ex BAJA off-road racer - battle tested. It ended my problems with the regular spade connectors.

Great info here. Thanks for posting.

I noticed your windshield was in. I found that removing the windshield for the rewire made it MUCH easier as I could access much of the wiring and do most of the work from outside the car. I timed the first car to when I needed a new windshield anyway. (Before lexan, we needed new windshields every year or so in So Cal and Arizona due to tracks with big gravel at the edges of the tracks.)

Now that I have lexan, I installed it to be easily removable. I had come up with a system to be able to have the glass windshield installed so that it was removable as well but abandoned it for lexan.

All in all, having the windshield removed and reinstalled when doing a complete rewire job would be something I would do because it is so much easier on my during the process.

Jim