Very interesting Steve.

Been using WxPak here too. When I started they were a bit hard to source. Now they're everywhere. Invested in a quality crimper (though not the ratcheting). Crimp tool makes all the difference in fact WxPak is sorta useless without. You may already know; I have found documents recommending crimp then solder and I usually do.

Have you looked also at MetriPack or Deutsch? What do your think?

Was thinking of going with circuit breakers next time out. Interested in your thoughts. HRP has a couple types. The milspec toggles would be nice.

Are you going to run the starter load through the remote circuit breaker? If so, or not, what rating does it need to be. I like the idea too but was hesitant about getting one large enough for that.

John

I did look at Deutsch connectors but they seemed considerably more expensive and IIRC, there was basically only one vendor in the U.S.

I didn't consider the circuit breakers but that isn't a bad idea.

It is my intent to run all electrical through the cut off switch. I bought all of this a while ago so I don't have the specs handy. As I pull everything back out, I'll get the specs and pics of what I'm using.

It is alive!

I've still got to finish up some of the accessory stuff but I'm through the hard part. The most difficult part is making the connection between the DME harness and the new system.

After a whole day of crimping, heat shrinking, and wiring, she came alive on the first turn of the key (push of the button).

I'll get a whole write up with pictures and a revised diagram before too much longer. I've got to go away for a few days but I plan to finish up next weekend.

944Racer72 wrote:


Steve:

I see the remote shutoff as installed in a few cars appears to not be available now. But I Google'd a different one. What did you find to use?

I bought a Painless wiring version but I decided to stay with ol' reliable and kept the mechanical cut off. I mounted the mechanical shutoff in an easier location so I can reach it from my seat. Details to come...

I'll be selling the Painless one if you are interested. I'll get the details when I get back this weekend.

I finally finished everything up last night so here goes:

Here is the Painless Wiring fuse/relay system I chose. Last year they were running a $100 credit so picked it up fairly reasonably. Their stuff is usually pricey.





Here are the switch panels I chose, made by Longacre:



And the dash panel, also a Longacre piece but I replaced their fuel pressure gauge with a volt meter. I like the fact that the gauges are mechanical and that each has a warning light. The bulb for low fuel pressure is now wired to the alternator and functions as the original alternator light on the factory dash did:





I've had the dash in for the last year or so.

I'm going to continue this in a few posts to make sure it doesn't crap out halfway through...