Sterling Doc wrote:

The replacement shift lever is over $50. The only way to properly fix the shift lever in the eyes of Porsche, is to replace it, as it only comes as an assembly. Anything done to the shift lever to try to fix/repair any part of it would be a modification or anything done to a brand new shift lever to alter it from stock would be a modification.

Sterling Doc wrote:

Understood.

Sterling Doc wrote:

The rule 13.3.1 I believe was intended to prevent altering the shift linkage points to make the shifter have a shorter throw, ie shifting from 1st to 2nd. If i raised the the pin on the shift lever up, rewelded it up higher, it would have this very effect, thus a short throw shifter. I don't think the rule was intended to regulate the combined height of the shift lever and shift knob as this would do nothing to shorten the throw.
Any way you look at it, my overall height is the same as stock and that is what your looking for.

Sterling Doc wrote:

Understood.

Sterling Doc wrote:

Sounds good. Jan 22 it is then. What time?

As for a "petty" protest, our CCR's have a provision that requires a driver to bring issues up when they are seen and specifically frown on someone knowing that another might have an issue and wait until after a race to protest it.

I think this is a great policy and have had guys point out issues to me several times during a weekend so I could address them without a protest being lodged. I would hope that the NASA officials are very aware of this to avoid the type of "petty" protest after a race rather than earlier when it can be corrected.

This is the essence of our class and the attitude of NASA in general.

I should have clarified that replacing it with the OEM part is, of course OK, but I'm all for saving the money, & fixing it yourself.

As far as the shift lever, give racers an inch, and one of them will take a mile, and "modify" their shift lever by chopping 4" off the top above the pin, and creating a ghetto short shifter, without changing the linkage geometry, and claim it's legal (seen that done)

Big Dog, I agree that's the way it should be, and the way we all expect it. SE30 recently had a racer protest over a missing piece of grill trim (was required) that he claimed improved airflow to the motor when it was missing... Not what I want to see, or have to rule on.

The intent of the rule is to allow one to replace the both the pin in the lever and hole in the shift rod. I don't really care what you do, but a heim joint won't work because you need the twist transfer to the gearbox in back.

As for the shift length you may NOT shorten it in any way. I have already asked at least one driver to address this which was done. No protest needed I just walked around and saw it and told him to fix it.

Eric's point is simply that if replace the shift knob be prepared to show it is the same overall length. The rules do not allow it to be shorter or longer as this impact the throw of the shifter in the car.

As for a petty protest. It can happen. As an official I may be forced to DQ a driver for such a thing if it were protested. I would rarher just issue a "fix it by next race" ticket instead and when I did notice one driver with a cut off shift lever I did not DQ, but just order it to be fixed. However that inspection was not started due to a protest so I was more flexible in my response.

Got my bushing in today so lets get started......
First off, YMMV and don't try this at home!
I rate this job a 2 cigarette and 1 beer difficulty.



The bushing is from Motion Industries, it is a sintered bronze bushing.
It measures 7/16 od.....5/16 id.....1.000 length.



The first thing I did was to drill out the shifter rod with a 7/16 bit.



I then filed the inside of the hole I just drilled for some extra clearance. A fine rat tail file works good.





Next I cut off the worn out shifter pin.



Center punched and drilled a pilot hole.



Notice it's in the middle of the pin weld. I then drilled the hole to size with a 5/16 bit and ground most of the weld off making sure to keep it flat.







continued on next post.........

The bushing is to long and the shift lever would have too much side to side play. I chucked the bushing up in my drill and used the side of the grinder wheel to remove some material. Go slow and measure often.



I trial fitted the bushing, using a standard 5/16 bolt, flat washer and nut.



You want the bolt to be long in order to use the shank part and not the thread part. It fits the bushing better. It will run long but just cut it down after you've fitted it.



I lubed up the ball and plastic pivot with some dry lube.



I made sure the plastic piece was positioned correctly on the bottom side.



I used blue loc-tite on every bolt



I positioned the lever in the middle of it's travel and tightened up the bolts. I test fitted the rest of the parts to make sure everything was good to go. Took it all back apart, applied some lube to the bushing and reassembled. Again using loc-tite, making sure not to over tighten the nut and bolt as to deform the bushing.



I installed a shifter cover that my wife made out of some vinyl we had left over when recovering our boat seats and new shifter handle.





It feels like a different shifter now, very tight and precise. It actually springs back to the center, it didn't before. I can't believe that worn pin and hole made that much difference. All I can say is WOW!!

Bushing cost with tax .95
Total car cost so far $4094.94