Those rotors did not look that bad. Still being front rotor makes sense to change them.

I needed to replace the rear rotors on my 944 and used these off of one of my parts cars. They were in thickness spec, just a little surface rust.



So some time with a wire brush and they have worked great for 1 or 2 seaons now.

I changed them cause the one side is thicker than the other and the thin side is below specs. I believe that the caliper is sticking, which will get rebuilt later on. I tried to get a good pic.






I wanted to clear the air on the weight of the A-arms. Here we have 2 A- arms and they both have the ball joints installed with no bushings. Up first the steel one.





As you can see the steel one weights in at 5 lbs 6.4 oz.
Next the aluminum one.





The aluminum one weights in at 5 lbs 6 oz even, .4 of an oz less than the steel one. Plus the aluminum ones are stiffer.

The cost of getting 2 steel arms plus the ball joints are about $85. The cost of a kit for the aluminum arms with both ball joints runs $185, both from Paragon.

You'll have to add in the cost of the bushings and that depends on what kind of bushings you want to run.

One last thing to consider, is what kind of sway bar will work best with with what arm and the cost of those.

All in all I think that the steel A-arms would be the least expensive to run and maintain. The aluminum ones would probably be a little bit better for the stiffness but cost more overall.

OK guys, I need some help here please!

I installed the steel A-arm. I have the delrin bushings in the front an I believe the Weltmeister poly in the rear. I installed the front and when I went to install the rear it looked like this.





There is a gap of 3/4 to 1" above the poly bushing. Is this normal???? When I install the U shape caster block to hold the poly bushing, yes, it does draw it up, but bindes the A-arm. Is this also normal??
It is the same when I tried the aluminum arm too.

good choice on the steel arms. Clearly the weight is a wash and the only performance difference is stiffness. The aluminum are better, but the steels are easy to replace and cheap. Cheap enough to be a wear item.


As for the rear caster block. I can't say I remember seeing that before, but I don't know how much I looked. First thing is to make sure the front is still loose before you install the caster block. Then tighten down the front crossmember.

The possiblty could be the some how the frame is not straight. Is the otherside the same way?

Yes both sides are the same. Either way you tighten it down it seems to bind the A-arm. Maybe I should install a steel/aluminum shim under the caster block.

Installing a shim would be the same as changing suspension geometry and not legal. It is possible the chassis is bent, but I do not have access to my car to compare.